Boom boom out go the lights
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Post by Boom boom out go the lights on May 20, 2019 17:12:57 GMT
What glue are you using for glueing soft plastic figures? Which one is the best? I found it very hard to glue cutted arm of figure or something like that in soft plastic. Check plasticsoldierreview.com and their features section. There is an article on glues. And which ones work. Sums it up nicely.
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Post by nshighlander on May 20, 2019 21:29:27 GMT
Hi grumble. No one in my area plays. So I`m just looking to base the figures that I have done. I guess I`m looking for a size that works best. Is there such a standard for infantry and such? I have alot of Naps and ACW to base. Cheers Dave
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Post by Zaphod on May 23, 2019 11:00:09 GMT
Hi I`m looking at puting my army on a base now. What size of a base would people recommend Please? Thanks for the help. Cheers Dave The standard for 1/72 scale used to be 20mm frontage per cavalryman on a base that is 40mm deep, and for infantrymen 15mm by 20mm deep. By mounting 4 infantrymen side by side or 3 cavalrymen, you get a base 60mm wide. However this “standard” seems to have fallen out of favour recently, and people often base infantry two deep and two wide, or even two deep and four wide. Skirmishers will need to be looser than this, and one option is to put them on individual coin-size bases, about 20-21mm diameter. Some rules, such as Sharp Practice, prefer individual mounting of figures and use of sabot-type bases. But as grumble says, it’s best to see what your potential opponents are doing and go with that.
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Post by grumble on May 23, 2019 20:01:17 GMT
No one in my area plays. So I`m just looking to base the figures that I have done. I guess I`m looking for a size that works best. Is there such a standard for infantry and such? I have a lot of Naps and ACW to base. When I began to play ACW again in the 1990's (due to the advent of a number of sets of 1/72-1/76 ACW figures in plastic, whereas before there was only Airfix), I was trying out various rules sets and therefore wasn't sure what size bases to make. Plus one of the rules sets (Johnny Reb 2) had the option of various sizes for bases (each regiment was five bases, but the number of figures could vary according to the historical size of the regiment, and it was relevant to game play how many figures were on a base). So to begin with, I based each figure on a piece of strong magnetic material (the kind that comes in a roll and is about 2 mm or 3/32" thickness). I then cut the bases -- of various sizes -- out of metal (in my case, olive oil tins because I'm cheap) with plastic or cardboard backing to give them some thickness for ease of picking up. That way I could vary the dimensions of the base and the number of figures on it. The only problems with this were (1) they weren't very attractive, being green metal bases with figures stuck on them via magnets also painted green and (2) in the heat of battle, sometimes figures were displaced or at least changed facing on the base due to rough handling. Once I settled on Johnny Reb 2 as my default ACW rules, I converted many of the figures to permanent bases (especially the "standard" 4-figure size) and then could add flocking, etc. to those. Of course, the others were still ugly. I do have to say, though that the metal bases were handy for affixing labels, which would be written on very thin magnetic material and changed according to the scenario. But it wasn't beautiful! If you want somewhat more permanent bases, you could try using plain white school glue to secure the figures to basswood, metal, plastic or cardboard bases. Then if you change your mind and want to re-base, they're pretty easy to pry loose. Of course, if you have flocked the bases, you'll be sacrificing the time and effort you originally spent on that.
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Dave
Quaestor
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Post by Dave on May 25, 2019 14:04:52 GMT
Thank you for all the help and information on the basse.
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Post by joe5790 on May 26, 2019 14:29:21 GMT
For bases, really it is up to you, but I find trying to base models as 'companies' made for somewhat of an historical feel while keeping all armies roughly the same size for game purposes.
So for my armies, all battalions have a 240mm frontage (based on the Black Powder rules)
For example, my Swedes are based 8 models on a 60x40mm base, 4 bases to a battalion as that was how the Swedes organised their battalions (4 companies to a battalion).
As opponents, I also have French that are based on 40x40mm bases, 6 models to a base, 6 bases to a battalion (4 fusiliers companies and 1 voltiguer company and 1 grenadier company).
Obviously you can base your models how to want, but if they are for game purposes you should at least try to make both armies consistent with each other. The amount of models on the bases are irrelevant in terms game play anyway.
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Post by Bk917 on May 26, 2019 18:14:58 GMT
for my part i use pva glue diluted 50/50 with water (hot, then let it cool) as a varnish. It's a bit glossy but not much, and really helps protecting figures[/quote][ This technique sounds really interesting. How do you get the glue to mix evenly with the water? Stirring? Or does it mix better while warm? In which case, what is your method for warming the glue? Is this a less toxic varnish? I live in an apartment and it can be annoying to make the ventilation sufficient to use a more traditional varnish. Thanks for the idea and help.
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Post by grumble on May 26, 2019 20:17:47 GMT
for my part i use pva glue diluted 50/50 with water (hot, then let it cool) as a varnish. It's a bit glossy but not much, and really helps protecting figures. [This technique sounds really interesting. How do you get the glue to mix evenly with the water? Stirring? Or does it mix better while warm? In which case, what is your method for warming the glue?Is this a less toxic varnish? I live in an apartment and it can be annoying to make the ventilation sufficient to use a more traditional varnish.Thanks for the idea and help. PVA glue is white glue that has no toxic fumes. I think Jean-marc was saying that the watered-down white glue is used to "varnish" over the painted colors to keep them from flaking off. In my experience, mixing PVA white glue with water is a simple matter of putting them together in a (preferably disposable) container in the desired proportions. I usually mix with the handle of a paintbrush, since they're to hand! My disposable mixing container of choice is a small plastic lid of some kind, since I'm usually just making a small batch.
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Post by Zaphod on May 27, 2019 19:34:59 GMT
I have some doubts about using PVA glue as a final varnish, diluted or not. It simply doesn’t have the mechanical strength. Far better to use it as a primer on the bare plastic before undercoating. It has a matt finish, which takes the shine off the plastic and acts as a key for acrylics paints to grip on to.
Many people swear by a layer of gloss varnish applied by paint brush over the completed painted figure, followed by a coat or two of sprayed matt varnish to take off the shine and tone back the colours slightly. If you’re using one of the commercial “dips” such as Army Painter’s Quickshade these act like gloss varnish and will save you a step in the process, though you’ll have to repaint highlights on the uniform to compensate for the darkening caused by the dip. They do also smell for six to twelve hours afterwards.
Diluted PVA does, however, have a useful place when protecting flock, static grass, rocks etc that are applied to the bases of your figures and terrain, helping lock these loose items in place. I’m struggling to do this myself as I find that when applied by brush the PVA matts and clogs up the static grass giving an unsatisfactory effect, and when sprayed through something like a pump action bottle clogs the spray mechanism, quickly ruining the bottle. Ideas?
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Dec 16, 2019 11:14:24 GMT
Spam comes to the forum. Oh dear!
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Post by Graeme on Dec 16, 2019 12:58:45 GMT
If you're logged in you can report the spam with the post options button at the top right of the offending post. I expect that one will be cleaned out pretty soon.
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Post by Moderator on Dec 16, 2019 18:40:45 GMT
Graeme,
many thanks for reporting this one.
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Post by jock52 on Dec 17, 2019 11:36:05 GMT
A coat of Klear over the figure prior to varnishing will cover it in a rock hard shell. Sticky out bits like guns, swords, spears, etc. benefit from a coat of PVA but remember to coat the arm as well. Any bit that can be 'pinged' needs this. Just my two-pen'orth.
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Post by Bk917 on Mar 7, 2020 21:35:41 GMT
A question for those using PVA glue before priming:
How long after the glue do you prime? Do you wait for the glue to dry? Do spray the primer on while it is still wet? Will the PVA glue on the first soldiers dry too much before you get to the last figure?
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Mar 8, 2020 5:38:11 GMT
My experience, for what it is worth.
I use PVA most often for fixing, conversions or occasionally to aid with straightening a musket or such. I've not often needed to prime with the glue as a good wash in detergent and thorough rinsing seems to be sufficient. That said, I had a 'recalcitrant' set of figs the other week (Airfix WWI French as it happens), so mixed a bit of PVA with my undercoat (I use acrylics) and voilà, I was away.
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Post by Bk917 on Mar 15, 2020 20:59:22 GMT
My experience, for what it is worth. I use PVA most often for fixing, conversions or occasionally to aid with straightening a musket or such. I've not often needed to prime with the glue as a good wash in detergent and thorough rinsing seems to be sufficient. That said, I had a 'recalcitrant' set of figs the other week (Airfix WWI French as it happens), so mixed a bit of PVA with my undercoat (I use acrylics) and voilà, I was away. I haven’t had the chance to test this technique yet, but aren’t there problems with the PVA drying before you have it applied to the figures? I appreciate the responses.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Mar 16, 2020 4:11:48 GMT
Not in may case. A little water keeps it fluid. (I do the same with paint only)
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Post by greentiger on Mar 19, 2020 10:37:59 GMT
I have never used it - I find that once based the figures are fine - I use a spray paint to undercoat (used to be plasticote but that is increasingly difficult to find) and just normal acrylic paint - sometimes flakes a bit on weak points but that's it..
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Post by paulrpetri on May 20, 2020 18:35:15 GMT
I must say I love these discussions. I have been painting plastic figures specifically for almost 30 years. Has it been that long? Good Lord. Anyway for priming I have gone the artist tube acrylic route as my primer. If you can find one that is close to your primary color, say dark blue for Prussians or red for British all the better. You could also use brown, black, white or any other color you like for your primer color base. Once I finish painting the figure I use Future floor wax, (Its Pledge with Future now), tinted with brown and black inks to make the "Dip". This acrylic floor wax really protects the figures. I always paint on the Dip and never actually dip any figures. You could paint on the floor wax with no tinting if you like. But be aware this stuff is high gloss when it dries. I then use Testers Dullcoat as the final sealer. I personally prefer flat sealed miniatures. It took me many years to get to this point but this system works very well and the paint really stays on. I hope this is useful to someone.
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Post by willzthewargamer on Jun 4, 2020 14:15:42 GMT
I always paint PVA wood glue onto my plastic figures prior to painting, leaving to dry a minium of 24 hours before spraying with grey or black car acrylic primmer. After I have painted the figure using acrylic's, again after the paint has dried, I varnish by hand using a brush with Daler-Rowney soluble matt varnish. This has worked very well on all but Caesar 20mm plastics? which for some reason after a few months go gloss? so I don't varnish Caesar figures anymore.
Willz the Wargamer.
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