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Post by rbhjr on Nov 24, 2019 23:25:30 GMT
What is the best glue for securing Hat’s 1:32 backpacks/drums/Arms/etc to the figures?
I’ve got a lot to assemble and want to do the job right the first (and hopefully only) time.
Thank you all for your help.
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Post by Ironsides on Nov 25, 2019 13:22:21 GMT
Pattex/Loctite Ultra Gel, likely available under different brand names as well just check the spec and compare, very strong bond and easy to use  |
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Post by rbhjr on Dec 29, 2019 10:34:46 GMT
Pattex/Loctite Ultra Gel, likely available under different brand names as well just check the spec and compare, very strong bond and easy to use Now that I have tried to fix over 1,000 backpacks onto 1:32 Hat figures I have some feedback; 1. I don’t like most of the Hat backpack configurations. The Longcoat sets are the WORST; the peg often does not fit into backpack opening at all. However, once afixed, this typically stay together. 2. Much prefer the cartrage pouch separate from backpack (as done on Voltigeurs & Carabiniers) and afixed to figure. Avoids complications involved when cartrage box is attached to backpack. 3. There has to be a better backpack slotting arrangement; that of the Hat French light sets leaves too much of a gap and often results in the backpack popping off the back as the glue dries. 4. The recommended glue worked better than other options I tried, but it was still not great and required a ton of glue per backpack, with still mixed results. |
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Post by Lenox on Dec 30, 2019 9:10:06 GMT
I use zap-a-gap medium ca+
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Post by rbhjr on Oct 19, 2020 5:07:48 GMT
In my search for a better way to affix the backpacks on 1/32 Hat figures (and frustration over the number of previously glued backpacks that have fallen off a few months later), I bought a hot glue gun.
So far, so great!
Quicker & easier to affix each backpack, as the heat melts most slight friction points and makes for a quick secure bond (avoiding the need for clamps and long drying times). That said, overall a little slower work as you must dispense glue, out down the gun and then quickly glue a pack on a figure one at a time, and of course always be careful of the hot gun-point.
Am I wrong in assuming the hot glue bond will be more secure over time than glue is?
Thanks
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Post by Ironsides on Oct 19, 2020 7:15:20 GMT
The parts need to have a good fit for Super glue of any kind to be effective, you may also need to use a degreasent first not just a wash in soapy water with some plastic, ie heptane its whats in all plastic two part CA glue packs... Thats said it sounds like you needed a gap filling glue suitable for soft plastic so yes I would agree Hot Glue may well be your best bet in 1/32... Theres also gap filling ultra violet activated glue sticks available now which may work well but I've not tried these yet... Experiment first, I always check the effectivness of the bond using the kit sprue first by cutting a piece in half and gluing it back together using the selected glue... if it holds under reasonable force I would consider it to be effective... |
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Post by rbhjr on Oct 19, 2020 14:07:17 GMT
Thank you Ironsides.
To attach smaller pieces like arms and flags I will continue to use glue, but will change to a 2 part CA.
I’ve used the Loctite 2 part CA for some of these before. While it’s easy to use when first opened, the glue part’s top fuses on after being open a few days. Reopening it after this is next to impossible without tearing the tube.
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Post by Ironsides on Oct 19, 2020 14:47:23 GMT
I find that the pattex/loctite CA gel doesn't do that and works the same with the primer stick from the two part "all Plastic" CA, the CA in the two part is just oridary CA whats important is the primer degreasent...
So in effect you dont need the two part glue just some heptane which should be available from Chemists/drugstores and leather worker supplies...
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Post by Deleted on Oct 19, 2020 17:11:43 GMT
Ive been using a Loctite Superglue "pen".
Its more of a gel instead of the usual liquid and has worked so far. Less messy too.
I make sure the figures have been thoroughly degreased beforehand, usually soaking them overnight.
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Post by Tripod on Oct 19, 2020 22:48:16 GMT
If all else fails go back to the original solution as per airfix .use bostick or a similar contact adhesive.Apply the glue and attach the part ,don't wait until it gets tacky.once dry the parts stay stuck. If you really want extra strength use a pin or staple pushed through,but that will get tiresome with lots to do.
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Post by Zaphod on Oct 22, 2020 8:14:01 GMT
If you go down the CA (superglue) route, one way of extending the life of the product is apparently to store the tube(s) in an airtight bag and place in the fridge.
I assume that means in the freezer compartment.
I find the small bottles sold by Poundland to be good value. Three bottles for a pound.
Any other superglue tips gratefully received — getting fed up with buying new tubes of glue every few months.
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Post by Zaphod on Oct 22, 2020 8:19:36 GMT
If you really want extra strength use a pin or staple pushed through... Every time I’ve tried this the pin slips or the staple breaks. What’s the best way to actually do this? Do I have to heat the pin/staple first? Do you need a specific type of pliers or a vice? |
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Post by Deleted on Oct 22, 2020 8:38:32 GMT
If you really want extra strength use a pin or staple pushed through... Every time I’ve tried this the pin slips or the staple breaks. What’s the best way to actually do this? Do I have to heat the pin/staple first? Do you need a specific type of pliers or a vice? I have found using carbon stems from fishermans pole floats to be pretty good for heads. On ebay you can buy packs of just the stems, with varying diameters to choose from. I got a good sharp drill bit which matches the stems & used araldite to fix into the shaft of an old paintbrush, removing the old hair, which was of similar diameter to the drill bit. I drill out the hole in the body/head and then cut a piece of the carbon stem off to what length i require and superglue in place, pushing the stem into the hole. This normally isnt a really tight fit, just enough to "grip" the stem. Havent had any heads fall off yet!! I find this a bit less fiddly then messing around with wire/staples etc. Recently converted some old Airfix WW1 British Infantry into British Napoleonic Infantry casualties using spare heads from Hats Peninsular Brits. Heres a link to some carbon stems... www.ebay.co.uk/itm/392275275040 |
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Post by Zaphod on Oct 22, 2020 9:12:00 GMT
Thanks, @roger W, for that quick response.
Remember walking past a fishing tackle shop quite recently. If only I could remember where!
I have several micro drill bits which I use with a pin vice drill but they slip all over the place on soft plastic. So, just about given up with that.
Bought a Dremel recently but those micro drill bits are too small to use with it. Besides, if not placed exactly square in the dremel head the bits and other attachments wobble all over the place.
Only thing that seems to work for me is heating a pin over a candle and pushing it into the plastic when very hot. Not always possible to be very accurate though.
Beginning to think I’m not cut out for this handyman malarkey. LOL.
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Post by Deleted on Oct 22, 2020 11:47:52 GMT
I know what you mean!!
I only do the headswaps if absolutely necesssary and only in limited numbers. I couldnt do an entire infantry regiment like it, id go mad!!! It is very fiddly.
Cant beat properly dedicated sets, which have spare heads and peg attachments already moulded on body.
As for the drill bits, as i say, i mount mine inside old paintbrushes which have lost their point and gone scruffy. I wouldnt use power tools to drill as they are just to powerful and fast. Using them by hand is better.
They are indeed micro but i try and make sure they are ultra sharp ones. If that means buying one rather than using an old one then im only around the corner from a DIY shop.
As for slipping off the body, this does happen but i have managed to stop it a little bit by making a small pilot hole with a scalpel point in the top of the "neck".
Just use it carefully, no need try put loads pressure on and end up digging yourself in finger instead figure!
If you are able to clamp figure in a vice and make the little pilot hole, it will make drilling easier.
But yes headswapping whichever method used is a challenge.
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Post by Ironsides on Oct 22, 2020 14:10:20 GMT
Occasionally I've looked for other types of glue intended for PP/PE, there is quite a few industrial glues about but usually way to expensive and in to large a quatity... however... Today I came across this E8000 it comes in three tube sizes and its intended for electronic repairs but apparantly will stick anything including PP/PE, anyone know about this one?...
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Post by pll on Oct 22, 2020 16:02:57 GMT
Zaphod and Roger W
I was interested to read about your experiences preparing and gluing for head conversions. I use paper clips that I cut one end of the wire that I have straightened out using a pair of metal snips cutting diagonally to create a point. Then use pliers to hold the rounded reverse end of the paper clip and screw the sharp cut end into the neck where the existing head has been removed. Once it is embedded firmly in to the body of the figure snip off again the wire sticking out allowing a few mm for the head to go on to. Doing this in the same diagonal way as before to create a sharp spike on to which the new conversion head can be similarly be pressed into. It doesn't then need glue though sometimes some filler is needed to fill in any gaps. It seems to work reasonably well though some care is needed to avoid bending the stem of the paperclip going into the neck. This is what I have used on only on 1:32 figures. I don't know how delicate the operation would be on 28mm or 1:72.
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Post by Graeme on Oct 23, 2020 5:57:18 GMT
I’ve used the Loctite 2 part CA for some of these before. While it’s easy to use when first opened, the glue part’s top fuses on after being open a few days. Reopening it after this is next to impossible without tearing the tube. Try this; after using the CA glue gently squeeze the sides of the tube close to where you squeezed the front and back to get the glue out. This will draw the glue down the clear plastic nozzle and back into the tube which prevents the glue setting inside the plastic nozzle. Wipe excess glue of the outside of the nozzle with a tissue before replacing cap. If the cap does get glued on then grip the collar of the clear plastic nozzle with needle nose pliers, grip the cap with another pair of pliers and twist them apart. You should be able to break the bond without damaging the foil tube. Regarding mini drill bits slipping on soft plastic when using a pin vice drill, I don't use the turning mechanism on the pin vice; I just hold the figure in one hand and the pin vice in the other and use forefinger and thumb on the chuck to rotate the drill. Like Roger I find the pointy end of an exacto knife twisted a couple of times will make a depression for the drill bit to sit in while you get it started. I use the two part all plastics glue on head and limb swaps but I also drill and glue in pins to strengthen the joint; I use plastic pins which come from any available source, e.g. brush bristles, spare flag poles, those plastic tags that are holding socks together when you buy them.  |
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Boom Boom out go the lights
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Post by Boom Boom out go the lights on Oct 23, 2020 16:52:02 GMT
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