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Post by Steve W on Oct 10, 2020 4:10:52 GMT
I'm about to paint some 8147 Nassau infantry.
Happy to hear suggestions about what colour to use for the natural leather on the crossbelts, etc.
The shops here in Melbourne stock a variety of ranges, and should be reopening soon after several months of Covid inspired closure.
Cheers, Steve
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Post by Deleted on Oct 10, 2020 5:12:39 GMT
I use Vallejo Model Colour 976 Buff for Nassau leather straps/belts. Seems to look about right.
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Post by paintdog on Oct 10, 2020 5:26:06 GMT
Steve, colour can be a can of worms.
I think any hope of a consistent, true shade for anything in the past is tenuous. If, for example, you look at any two historical paintings of the same regiment, the colours will vary.
As most uniforms were made in a cottage-style way rather than a centralised factory, the real thing probably varied a lot too.
Then, your undercoating will subtly change any colour you use: a black versus a white undercoat.
OK: so not much help so far.
I would not disagree with Roger but you could use "yellower" colours. Vallejo Game Color 72.040 Leather Brown. Or even Vallejo Model Color 70.923 Japanese Uniform WW2
In the end, it's your call & though I was once very uptight about colours, I think it best not to get too het up.
donald
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Post by Deleted on Oct 10, 2020 6:13:41 GMT
I agree with Donald, just pick a colour which you believe looks right.
Yes i went with Vallejo Buff but I did try some darker shades such as leather brown, but i just felt buff was the better (for me), using the Mont St Jean uniform website and pictures from other sources.
Some of these pictures varied wildly. Some showed the belts to be a off white, some a much more tan/brown shade.
My advice is to do what someone would do if trying colours out when re-decorating a room.
Get 3 or 4 different colours you feel may work best, do a test with each shade on some figures, then whichever one you feel looks best, continue doing all the other figures with that.
I did this when trying out greens for my 95th rifles. Did a figure in each of the 5 different shades i tried, allowed them to dry fully, then compared these to the resource material. Whichever looked about right was what I went with.
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Post by paintdog on Oct 10, 2020 12:22:58 GMT
And I agree with Roger!
One of the issues with painting minis is that if you tend to paint them in colours brighter than reality because, due to their size, you can end up with a muddy look rather than a more vibrant, more saturated look that will "pop" on the gaming table.
donald
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Post by Zaphod on Oct 11, 2020 15:24:12 GMT
Also gearing up to do my Nassauers soon — once I figure how to tackle the battalion colours. Might have to buy a metal figure from somewhere. (Ideas anyone?) I usually like my officers and NCOs to be in metal as in Sharp Practice they are based separately and take a lot of handling.
I believe the Nassau belts were meant to be buff leather. Now whether these were treated with oil in the same way as 17th buff-coats, I don’t know but that would give them a distinct yellowish tinge that would tie in the collar and cuffs of their uniforms. I propose to do mine in the traditional buff colour worn, for example, by certain British line units as a facing colour. So, a fairly light buff, followed by a thin wash of dark sepia or umber to bring out the details.
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Post by Zaphod on Oct 11, 2020 15:29:03 GMT
Corrections to the above post:
battalion colours — as in flags
17th buff coats should read “17th-century buffcoats”
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Post by Steve W on Oct 12, 2020 0:52:14 GMT
Thanks for all the suggestions. I will have a look at the Vallejo buff once the shops reopen.
I have the Tamiya buff which I use for British buff facings and belts, but am looking for a slightly yellower tinge. Agree that there would have been significant variation in colour as equipment aged.
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Post by greentiger on Oct 13, 2020 15:01:56 GMT
For a slightly different answer- I used Miniatures Paints 'Sand' which is quite a rich yellowish cream - quite hard to find nowadays though.
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