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Post by 1stsgt37thga on Aug 12, 2017 13:27:23 GMT
Fellow Hat and war game enthusiast what scale buildings do you put on your war game tables? Do you try to match the 1/72nd scale of the figures or do you go smaller or bigger, say 15mm or 28mm. Any advice would be appreciated, after years of painting Hat figures and fighting small games in the floor I have finally got some tables that are ready for larger games. Thank you for your suggestions! Your friend,
Todd
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Post by paintdog on Aug 13, 2017 8:24:23 GMT
Hi, Todd.
I think the size of the buildings depends on the scale of the wargame.
Thus, for my WW2 games, which use a figure ratio of about1:2, the buildings are 1/72 to match the figures. For my Napoleonic games of 1:33, the buildings are "big" 15mm.....& even these are a bit too big. Clearly full scaled buildings would be odd in that a battalion could easily fit in a peasant's hovel.
We do, for H&M, specify how many figures can garrison a BUA.
donald |
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Post by 1stsgt37thga on Aug 13, 2017 13:33:49 GMT
Thank you Donald, I had not considered building size from that point of view, I was merely thinking in terms of looks. You are right about the scale of the building as I mostly wargame Napoleonic and American Civil War. As always I knew the information would be found here on the Hat forum. Your Friend, Todd
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Post by Hemmschuh on Aug 13, 2017 16:02:03 GMT
Hello,
buildings and figures should be in a certain relationship. Many houses were once much smaller, rather cottage. Others, such as railway stations or banks, were much larger and higher. For smaller buildings I prefer 1/72, with larger 1/76 or 1/87.
Best regards, Sebastian
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Post by 1stsgt37thga on Aug 13, 2017 22:46:08 GMT
Thanks Sebastian, I have been considering the "look" and "feel" of the table verses scale of troops and the ratio of figures to actual troops. One problem I am having is finding historically accurate buildings in our 1/72nd scale. Smaller scales like 15mm are abundant and fairly economical but are dwarfed by the figures. I wish Hat made buildings for their figure eras and that would solve my problem. Thank you for the advice. Your friend, Todd
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Post by grumble on Aug 17, 2017 16:13:39 GMT
As Paintdog said, it really does depend on the scale of the game.
For ACW *Johnny Reb*, each stand of figures represents about two companies (there are five stands per regiment). So I use roughly 10mm scale buildings because 1/72 buildings would take up inordinate amounts of space on the table and the geography would be all wrong.
But for ACW *Brother Against Brother*, which is a skirmish/small unit game, I use full-size 1/72 scale buildings. The favorite 1/72 buildings I have found for games are the ones that come in booklets to cut out and assemble. There are probably such buildings online as well. To get smaller buildings, I have made color copies of some of these buildings in a reduced size and then glued the paper to card stock. Again, online I imagine you can buy a PDF and change it to whatever size suits you.
For most card stock buildings, I fit foam core board in the interior as reinforcement. If I intend to put figures inside the buildings (for skirmish games) I build the roof separately and mount it on slightly thicker cardboard for easy removal and durability.
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Post by 1stsgt37thga on Aug 17, 2017 23:43:33 GMT
Thanks Grumble, I fight large scale battles with at least a brigade or more on each side. I am beginning to think that 10mm to 15mm is going to serve my purpose for having buildings on the table as victory areas or just landmarks for troop entry from off the map arrivals. I do like Johnny Reb rules, but I use Black Powder and house rules for smaller battles. Thank you for the suggestions especially the cut out buildings, need to look on line for some of those. Your friend, Todd
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Post by Edwardian on Oct 7, 2017 9:23:58 GMT
For wargames, I suppose the choice is whether to make buildings at a noticeably smaller scale, to accommodate the ground-scale, or whether you want something that visually complements the figures.
If the former, I suppose the easiest thing is to match the ground scale.
If the latter, a good starting point for HaT figures are UK-outline model railways to OO Gauge, which have a scale of 1/76. This is close enough to 1/72 and enables you to work to a handy scale of 4mm to a foot. However, selective compression is possible; many UK model railway buildings are compressed, particularly churches, so there is an art to shrinking the building but retaining the impression of scale.
The third way is, I suppose, anything in between that fits the space available and looks visually pleasing.
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